Snorkeling gear purchasing information

l Masks l Fins l Booties l Snorkel l

Masks: The main rule for dive masks is a $20 mask that seals is better than a $200 one that doesn't. All dive or snorkeling masks should enclose the nose to allow the wearer to equalize the internal air space by exhaling through their nose otherwise mask squeeze will occur which can be painful and damage your eyes. Some masks have a single pane of glass and some are divided into two separate lenses. This doesn't seem to make allot of difference to vision, its up to you which you like. Most masks are made from either plastic, rubber or silicon (clear and black). Plastic and PVC masks tend to perish and warp even if looked after and usually do not seal well for long, if at all. They are cheap and nasty but good for people heading off on holiday and will most likely never use them again. Rubber masks will last for years if looked after (wash well after diving and keep out of the sun or hot places such as car boots etc.) but they will still perish over time. Most divers prefer silicon for its durability and sealing abilities. The cheaper silicon masks that come in snorkeling sets can work for scuba divers but are more prone to leaking and breaking due to their light weight construction. For most divers a good quality dive mask should last for years and is possibly one of your most important purchases you can make. Clear silicon lets more light in than black and gives the wearer a more open, less closed in feeling. Black silicon masks feel more claustrophobic but as it doesn't allow light to enter from behind it is not prone to reflections on the inside of the glass which some people find distracting. Some masks come with side windows. These allow a little peripheral vision and feel allot more open but are usually higher volume (i.e. require more clearing if water enters). Another feature found in many masks are one way purge valves, usually situated in the bottom-center of the mask. These allow the user to clear the mask of water simply by exhaling through their nose. Purge masks are handy for people with beards and mustache's (anti-sealant as we call them) as they usually have a constant trickle of water flowing into their mask. For other users they are more hassle than they're worth as it is difficult to get to the users nose to assist with clearing the ears during descent. To try a mask on in a shop first forget the strap. Hold the mask lightly on your face in front of a mirror if available, and check for gaps and hair or anything else that is going to affect the seal. Breath in through your nose and hold your breath. The mask should suck on and stay there. Allot of sales people suggest pushing the mask hard on your face. If you do this most masks will fit, in the shop at least as the mask is forced to fit your face. The only true test for a good fit is in the water so ask the sales person if the mask leaks can you swap the mask if returned in new condition (we will). Some masks come with prescription lens at extra cost. It is ok to dive with contact lenses in but I'd suggest cheap disposable ones in case you lose them. One trick with all masks-before you use them the first time get some jif or toothpaste on your finger and clean the inside of the glass. It gets an oily coating from the silicon. Don't do this on plastic lenses masks. After that either spit or use mask-de-fog just before a dive. Return to top of page.

Fins: First up, little rubber snorkeling fins are not suitable for NZ dive conditions. The reason is that you have to kick 10 times faster with them to get anywhere and as this uses air at a faster rate it can be dangerous if caught in a current, as well as potentially causing over exhaustion to the diver. There are relatively inexpensive full foot (i.e. enclose the whole foot) fins available that will do the job. Most common for NZ divers are the open heel fins as they usually give more power for effort and the user can wear hard soled booties with them. Almost all full foot fins have quick release buckles on the sides for ease of donning and removal. Fins work by different methods. Cheaper more simple ones like the Liberator fins merely increase the surface area of your foot. While they work they are less efficient than more up market types. Some fins work by scooping water as you kick. These are ideal for larger people who need more power due to increased water resistance. They do require strong kicks (hence strong legs) to work efficiently and are not wonderful for casual snorkeling as they don't work well with the short kick stroke of surface swimmers. The Cressi Frog and Blade 2 fins work by having softer ends that give a flick at the end of each kick - this is referred to as a whip motion, they are ideal all round fins for most dive situations. Vortex and Atomic fins work by pushing the water backwards rather than up and down which makes them easier on the leg to use. When trying fins a good fit around the foot is essential. Remember even the best fin is not going to work if it doesn't fit well. For full foot fins a snug fit is important, if you chose to go the full foot option you will need to decide whether to go for an aquasock or not (preferable in NZ conditions), as this will affect the fit. A fin that is loose will not work efficiently and will lead to blisters. If it is to tight it will cause cramps and quickly become uncomfortable. If you're between sizes wearing ordinary or thin neoprene socks may help. To try full foot fins on first clip in both sides and loosen off the straps. Push your booted (if you're going that way) foot firmly into the foot pocket and pull the strap's firmly into place. There should be no large gaps around the top and the underneath of your foot should be most of the way in, at least halfway up your heel. If it is not your foot will wobble and flex when you kick hence loosing power and causing discomfort and maybe cramps. Not all fins will fit all feet so try a few different types and styles. Unfortunately even in their first use in the pool fins tend to get scratched so trying a pair before buying usually isn't an option unless a used pair is available. Return top of page.

Booties: Either come in soft or hard soles. Soft-soled booties are usually a little warmer due to snugger fit but don't last as long due to being made of thinner materials. They are ideal for full foot fins and good for open heeled fins. Hard soled boots such as Super zip and Delta's are made of heavier duty material and as their name implies, have hard soles ideal for walking over rocks. They are best for open heel fins. Most hard soled booties come with side zips, which must be kept washed after use otherwise salt build up will cause problems. As for fit they should be snug, however, a little big is better than a little small. If they're too small they will give the wearer cramps. If they're too big the fin strap will hold them in place and the worst that will happen is a bit of extra water sloshing around the feet. Return top of page.

Snorkels: Come in many shapes but really only three sizes. Kids, youths and adults. The reason for this is kids have small lungs therefore they need smaller gauge snorkels so there is less water to clear plus they are breathing less 'dead' (air breathed out on the last breath) air. Adults are bigger and therefore need a bigger bore to allow more air to pass through quicker. Most snorkels are designed to fit on the left side of the head as scuba regulators generally come in from the right side. Some 'dry-top' snorkels have an attachment at the top like the 'Dry top' or Impulse to deflect water when it splashes over the top. This is a useful feature but most do tend to get caught in weed if given the chance. Almost all of today's snorkels have a purge valve at the bottom. This one way valve allows water to drain out the bottom every time you exhale. Very useful and very simple. Some snorkels have a bendy section such as the 'Floppy'. This handy feature means the mouth piece drops out of the way automatically whereas with snorkels such as the 'purge' snorkel you have to turn them aside. Return top of page.

If you are considering buying dive gear, please come in and see us for a consultation we will listen and ascertain you diving level and requirements and write you a prescription for gear we think best suits you not us. Remember, our second golden rule at Orakei Dive is that most expensive is not always best (our first golden rule is take them for all you can).